Summer Skin S.O.S.

5 Tips for Surviving the Season

Hurray for summer! Blue skies. Longer days. And tons of fun in the sun. But while you're soaking it up, your skin is suffering. Here are a few tips to minimize sun damage and stay safe all season long.

Hydrate. Inside and Out. Did you know that the average adult loses 2-4 liters of water every day? So obviously, you need to consume more H2O to stay hydrated in the summer. But the water you drink can't penetrate through the dead skin cell layers of the Epidermis. Try a moisturizing mask and a toner/spritzer to keep your skin hydrated, too.

Change Your Moisturizer. As temperatures and humidity rise, your oil production goes into overdrive. Swap your rich winter cream to a lightweight moisturizer to help keep skin balanced.

Use a Vitamin C Serum. The sun can do some serious damage. In addition to increasing the risk of skin cancer, it breaks down collagen, darkens brown spots, and creates free radicals that wreak havoc on healthy cells. Vitamin C is an antioxidant that can help filter UV rays and counteract the sun's negative effects.

Use Sunscreen. Whether you burn or tan, are light skinned or dark skinned, you're susceptible to sun damage. Protect yourself with an SPF 30 that has both physical and chemical ingredients. And remember, sunscreen does not replace your moisturizer so make sure you're using both. To learn more about sunscreen, check out our blog.

Treat Sunburned Faces Immediately. To calm a sunburn, use a bag of frozen veggies or put ice in a plastic bag and apply. Don't put ice cubes or cold water directly on the skin. To prevent peeling, try a soothing aloe mask and extra moisturizer. And don't pick at blisters or peeling skin or the skin might scar.

Pregnancy and the Skin

Not everyone gets the "glow!"

With Mother's Day just around the corner, I thought it would be a good time to talk about how pregnancy affects your skin. The baby news may be joyful, but the problems that follow are anything but.

Acne. If you don't have acne-prone skin, then you probably won't break out during your pregnancy. If you do, then it often depends on where your normal hormone levels lie. Thus, if you tend to be a little heavier on the androgen side, then being pregnant with a girl can reduce breakouts. On the other hand, being pregnant with a boy can lead to excess oil production and make your breakouts worse. But don't despair! There are plenty of baby-safe treatments to try:

Yes: Low-dose Benzoyl Peroxide, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Sulfur Masks, Microdermabrasion, High Frequency
No: Accutane, Tetracycline, Retinols, Salicylic Acid

Pigmentation. During pregnancy, many moms-to-be see an increase in pigmentation called Melasma or Chloasma. Caused by a rapid increase in melanin production triggered by rising estrogen levels, these patchy brown spots are usually temporary and can be treated safely with a number of different ingredients:

Yes: Azelaic Acid, Vitamin C, Kojic Acid, Arbutin
No: Hydroquinone, Retinol, Sun Exposure

Eczema/Dermatitis. Pregnancy hormones and increased blood flow will often make your skin more sensitive. If you start to see dry patches or flare ups, try one of these anti-inflammatory treatments:

Yes: Chamomile, Calendula, Coal Tar, Antihistamines, Oatmeal
No: Cyclosporine, Protopic, Elidel, Alcohol, Harsh Detergents

Of course, check with your doctor if any concerns arise.

Out Damn Spot!

Pigmentation Demystified

Uneven skin tone is probably the most hated facial flaw amongst women today. And it's also one of the most difficult to treat. Even if you have success in lightening those stubborn spots, one week in the sun can often bring them back. So what's a gal to do? The first step is to understand how melanin works, and accepting that if you choose to fight it, it's a battle that lasts a lifetime. Sigh.

Hyperpigmentation and Sun Damage. Inside our skin we have pigment cells called melanocytes that determine the color of our skin. They also serve as protectors, manufacturing melanin whenever our skin experiences some sort of "injury." And just like with a tan, the melanin slowly fades away once the injury has healed. But if the skin is injured repeatedly by sunburns, sun exposure, or recurring acne lesions, the melanocytes go into a sort of permanent overproduction that never stops. Some spots can take up to 20 years to develop, and the darker your skin tone, the more melanocytes you have, thus the more prone you are to pigmenting.

Melasma. Often mistaken for sun damage, Melasma is a form of hormonally induced pigmentation that can occur any time hormones change. Pregnancy, lactation, contraceptive use, perimenopause, and menopause can all trigger the body to produce more melanin, resulting in large, dark patches that look like symmetrical stains on the skin. And while the sun doesn't cause Melasma, it can definitely bring it out.

Treatments. Once pigment becomes permanent, meaning the Melanocytes have entered the state of ongoing overproduction, fighting it becomes multifaceted. First, you have to exfoliate the skin to bring the damaged (discolored) cells to the surface. Microdermabrasion, chemical peels, and exfoliants like Retinol are my favorite methods. But just like a penny at the bottom of a pool, as the cells rise up, they often look darker and more distinct before they fade away.Next, you need to break up and lighten the melanin clusters in order to reduce their appearance. Vitamin C, Arbutin, and Licorice Root all do a good job in this department. Finally, you need to suppress new melanin production with ingredients like Hydraquinone, Kojic Acid, or Niacinamide.With these simple steps, and a little patience, you can achieve some dramatic results. Just remember to stay out of the sun!

BACK TO BASICS

EXFOLIATION

“Tell me about your facial products.” I ask this question every day. And I get a lot of different answers. Sometimes it’s simple, like a cleanser and a moisturizer. And sometimes it’s a laundry list of serums and masks and different days of the week. Regardless of the regimen’s complexity, one thing comes up again and again as missing…exfoliation. 

Exfoliation is Key. From acne to fine lines to pigmentation, exfoliation is the best way to treat most facial flaws. Every age can benefit. For teens, exfoliation keeps dead skin from building up so pores remain open, oil flows freely, and no bacteria can grow. For 20 to 30-somethings, exfoliation helps products penetrate to protect healthy cells from environmental damage. And for us 40+ers, exfoliation triggers the underlying tissues to help skin heal and regenerate.

Choose from Physical or Chemical. Exfoliation can be done with a scrub (beads), with an enzyme mask (fruit-based), or with an acid (lactic or glycolic). But never, under any circumstance, can it be done with St Ives Apricot Scrub. Haha. It really is a terrible product.

Exfoliate 2-3x a Week. Just like working out, “every once and a while” doesn’t do much. Cell turnover slows down as we age, so extra exfoliation can help new cells grow and push the damaged cells up and off.

BACK TO BASICS

WASHING YOUR FACE

As an esthetician, I live and breathe skin care. Following a proper skin care regimen is second nature to me. But I’m constantly reminded that not everyone knows what to do or why it’s essential. Like washing your face.

Whenever I have a new facial client, my first question is always, “Can you tell me about your skin?” I know what I see, but I want to hear what you see. My second question then follows: “What are you using on your face right now?” A lot of people know what to do, but they’re just not using good products. But even more people admit that they just splash water on their face, or use their shampoo or gentle body soap (sorry—but Dove Sensitive Skin Body Soap is still not appropriate for your face). I get it…you’re busy. Kids. Workouts. Zoom calls. But it takes the same amount of time to reach for a facial cleanser as it does water. Often people who don’t wear make up feel like washing their face is unnecessary. But think about all the pollution and pets and kids that touch your face day and night. Not to mention food and your own hands. Properly washing your face can make all the difference. Even if your skin seems healthy now, it can help prevent problems in the future.

Use a facial cleanser. As mentioned above, splashing your face with water alone won’t cut through the oil. You wouldn’t wash your dishes or clothes in just water, would you? So why is it enough for your face? And using your shampoo or soap is just too harsh and will dry you out.

Cleanse morning and night. In the morning because you sweat, drool, and produce oil while you sleep. Before bed because all day long, you, your pet, and your kids touch your face. Plus, food, pollution, and oil add up to a lot of grime.

Follow with a moisturizer. So many people have told me that they, “like to start the day and go to bed with a clean face.” But a freshly washed face takes time to return to its natural pH, during which it is susceptible to dryness, irritation, inflammation, and overzealous oil production. Applying a moisturizer neutralizes your skin faster while keeping hydration locked in.

Hello, Hindsight?

SKIN CARE ADVICE FOR MY YOUNGER SELF.

‘Tis the season for holiday movies. And my personal favorite, A Christmas Carol, always makes me ponder the possibilities. If I could go back in time, what would I change? Unfortunately, any serious alteration might set off a Butterfly Effect. So I’d be happy with just a few words of wisdom about my passion…skin care. Here’s what I’d say…

“Wear SPF 30 every day.” Obviously skin Cancer is the biggest danger here. I don’t want to downplay that. But I have spent thousands of dollars trying to correct the other effects of sun damage like wrinkles and pigmentation.

“Wash your face morning and night, even if you don’t wear make up.” So many people tell me that they don’t wash their face morning and night. But we produce oil 24/7. Throw in a little pollution, dog kisses, sticky kid hands, and drool and you’ve got a recipe for clogged pores and irritation.

“Don’t smoke.” Smoking asphyxiates the skin, which leads to clogged pores, dehydration, and collagen breakdown. And those vertical lines around your lips? Totally caused by puffing and puckering.

“Don’t use drug store products.” Before I became an esthetician, I never bought professional skin care because, well, I didn’t know any better. I also thought that I couldn’t afford them. But products sold to the masses have such low percentages of active ingredients that they basically do nothing. They also have a lot of alcohol and cheap fillers. Why settle when there are professional products close to the same price?

“Start using eye cream before you need it.” Oh crow’s feet…how you taunt me every time I look in the mirror. Using eye cream in your 20s and 30s helps keep fine lines from forming in the first place.

“Get regular facials.” I used to view facials as a luxury. But now I know that getting regular facials really does make a difference. And I hear it time from my clients all of the time. They help keep your pores clear, and your skin exfoliated and hydrated. It’s all about wellness and prevention, just like going to the dentist.

It’s never too late to start good habits. Happy Holidays!

Movember is for Men!

DON’T GET LAX WITH YOUR WAX THIS WINTER.

On goes the debate over hair removal. Should I wax? Should I shave? What about laser? Can I get away without hair-tending in the winter? Should I tell my friend that Movember is just for men? Well, as expected, estheticians are cheerleaders for waxing year round. And here's why:

1. Waxing lasts longer than shaving.
Clearly it makes sense that if you remove the hair from the root, it takes longer to grow back. 21 days longer, to be exact. And if you wax consistently, your three hair cycles sync up so you'll get even more time before those hairs show their heads.

2. Waxing makes hair thinner.
If you shave every day, the constant stimulation of the hair follicle triggers a "healing" reaction where the body floods the follicle with nutrients designed to make the hair stronger. Waxing is done much less often, therefore less stimulation. Over time, yanking out the hair also retards the follicle so hair becomes thinner and may even stop growing entirely. Doesn't that sound nice?

3. Waxing leads to fewer ingrowns and irritation.
We've all dealt with razor burn and ingrown hairs caused by frequent shaving. Waxing can definitely help reduce this since there's no constant scraping of the skin.

4. Laser overpromises.
Of course there are people who are satisfied with their results, but I have a lot of waxing clients who have tried it and are still showing up on my table. That kind of says it all. Since laser is attracted to pigment, you need really dark hair and really light skin. And it takes a lot more sessions than they say. And after all those sessions, often the hair is not completely gone! I know waxing isn't permanent either, but at least it's a lot less expensive.

Check Out Our Waxing Services >>

The ABCs of CBD

GET TO KNOW THIS NEW INGREDIENT.

When it comes to hot, new ingredients, CBD is taking the wellness world by storm. And for good reason! Whether used on the skin or on the body, its anti-inflammatory properties are undeniable. 

CBD is a cannabinoid derived from hemp. That’s right…cannabis. But unlike its source, CBD is free of THC so it has no psychotropic properties. Used topically, CBD provides many benefits:

• Reduces inflammation
• Soothes and hydrates sensitive skin
• Calms redness and irritation
• Regulates oil production
• Reduces pain and discomfort
• Treats rosacea, eczema, and psoriasis

 At our Campbell location, we offer a CDB Facial and a CBD Massage so that you can experience this new ingredient in the spa setting. We also have three new retail products available in Campbell and Los Altos, including a serum rollerball, a masque, and a moisturizer. They’re all 100% hemp-derived, broad-spectrum, and contain between 100 and 200 mg of CBD. So come check them out!

Serious Serums

Tiny bottles. Big price tags. Are they worth it?

When it comes to skin care regimens, I've always believed in simplicity. Use only the number of products you need to keep your skin healthy. So for many years, I thought serums were “extra” and unnecessary. Then a funny thing happened...I turned 40. And all of a sudden, my needs changed. My simple regimen was no longer enough to fend off wrinkles and sun damage. I needed more.

That was 10 years ago, and now I covet serums like Gollum and his “precious.” I only wish I had started using them sooner.

What is a serum? Lightweight and chock-full of potent, active ingredients, serums are designed with small molecules to penetrate faster and deeper. They "feed" the skin with concentrated vitamins and antioxidants that trigger cell renewal.

How do they fit into my regimen? Serums can be used day, night, or both depending on their ingredients and their purpose, and should be layered underneath your moisturizer and SPF.

Which serums should I use? That depends on what you'd like to improve or prevent.

Fine lines? Look for serums containing Vitamin A (retinol), peptides, or CoQ10.

Pigmentation? Vitamin C, Kojic Acid, and Hydroquinone are your best choices.

Acne? Try salicylic acid, glycolic, or benzoyl peroxide serums. And don't use an "all-in-one, do everything" serum. Too many ingredients start to dilute each other's efficacy. And they're usually more expensive, anyway. You're better off getting two serums and using one in the morning and one at bedtime.

Why are they so spendy? Since serums are formulated with higher concentrations of active ingredients, they often come with a higher price tag. But you don't have to spend hundreds of dollars. We've got some amazing budget-friendly choices that work wonders!

Learn More >>

GROCERY STORE SKIN CARE

You Deserve Better!

Most of you know that I try very hard not to criticize other brands of skin care. Especially if you’re using them and your skin looks great! But there are two products that I just can’t keep silent about:

Cetaphil. This one really irks me because I know a lot of dermatologists recommend it. But the reason they do this is because it is completely inert. It literally does nothing! It won’t hurt you, but it won’t help you either. There are no active ingredients in there…just a lot of fillers and emulsifiers.

St. Ives Apricot Scrub. We’ve all used this at one time or another. But this product is known for tearing up the skin. In esthetician school, they actually show microscopic slides of before and after using this, and the integrity of the skin is frightening. This product doesn’t even use apricot as its exfoliating ingredient. It uses walnut shells, which are so jagged that they literally cut the skin. Apricot oil is the very last ingredient on the list, which means the concentration is almost negligible.

I understand the draw of buying grocery store skin care. It’s convenient, and it’s cheap. But there are better products out there that really don’t cost much more. And when you use these mass-produced products, the price you really pay is the health of your skin.