Serious Serums

Tiny bottles. Big price tags. Are they worth it?

When it comes to skin care regimens, I've always believed in simplicity. Use only the number of products you need to keep your skin healthy. So for many years, I thought serums were “extra” and unnecessary. Then a funny thing happened...I turned 40. And all of a sudden, my needs changed. My simple regimen was no longer enough to fend off wrinkles and sun damage. I needed more.

That was 10 years ago, and now I covet serums like Gollum and his “precious.” I only wish I had started using them sooner.

What is a serum? Lightweight and chock-full of potent, active ingredients, serums are designed with small molecules to penetrate faster and deeper. They "feed" the skin with concentrated vitamins and antioxidants that trigger cell renewal.

How do they fit into my regimen? Serums can be used day, night, or both depending on their ingredients and their purpose, and should be layered underneath your moisturizer and SPF.

Which serums should I use? That depends on what you'd like to improve or prevent.

Fine lines? Look for serums containing Vitamin A (retinol), peptides, or CoQ10.

Pigmentation? Vitamin C, Kojic Acid, and Hydroquinone are your best choices.

Acne? Try salicylic acid, glycolic, or benzoyl peroxide serums. And don't use an "all-in-one, do everything" serum. Too many ingredients start to dilute each other's efficacy. And they're usually more expensive, anyway. You're better off getting two serums and using one in the morning and one at bedtime.

Why are they so spendy? Since serums are formulated with higher concentrations of active ingredients, they often come with a higher price tag. But you don't have to spend hundreds of dollars. We've got some amazing budget-friendly choices that work wonders!

Learn More >>

GROCERY STORE SKIN CARE

You Deserve Better!

Most of you know that I try very hard not to criticize other brands of skin care. Especially if you’re using them and your skin looks great! But there are two products that I just can’t keep silent about:

Cetaphil. This one really irks me because I know a lot of dermatologists recommend it. But the reason they do this is because it is completely inert. It literally does nothing! It won’t hurt you, but it won’t help you either. There are no active ingredients in there…just a lot of fillers and emulsifiers.

St. Ives Apricot Scrub. We’ve all used this at one time or another. But this product is known for tearing up the skin. In esthetician school, they actually show microscopic slides of before and after using this, and the integrity of the skin is frightening. This product doesn’t even use apricot as its exfoliating ingredient. It uses walnut shells, which are so jagged that they literally cut the skin. Apricot oil is the very last ingredient on the list, which means the concentration is almost negligible.

I understand the draw of buying grocery store skin care. It’s convenient, and it’s cheap. But there are better products out there that really don’t cost much more. And when you use these mass-produced products, the price you really pay is the health of your skin.

SEEING SPOTS?

Zap Zits with These Tips

June is Acne Awareness month. Which makes it a great time to talk about what causes acne. The short answer is: genetics and hormones. Clearly these two factors are pretty hard to control, but you can minimize the triggers that make acne worse. Like foods that cause hormone fluctuations such as sugar, dairy, gluten, and shellfish, inappropriate products that strip your skin’s barrier, or thick make up that clogs pores. Or even stress, which raises your cortisol levels and causes the skin to overproduce oil.

Acne may not curable, but it is treatable. So what can you do to minimize the destruction?

1. Keep a log. Whenever you break out, try to determine if there is any common denominator. Like if you break out right before your period, then maybe using a mask or getting a facial the week prior can reduce the severity. Or if you always break out when you drink beer, maybe gluten is not your friend. Or if stress is the culprit, pair a clay mask with a glass of wine when life gets crazy.

2. Exfoliate. You really need to exfoliate twice a week to remove dead skin cells and clear the path for your pores. 

3. Treat. Minimize breakouts by using products that balance oil production and fight bacteria, like Benzoyl Peroxide, Salicylic Acid, Niacinamide, and Sulfer.

4. Clean. Wash your pillowcases, make up brushes, and towels more often. And always wash your face before bed, even if you don’t wear make up. Follow cleansing with a moisturizer so you don’t overproduce oil while you sleep.

WE'VE GOT YOUR BACK

GET SET FOR SUMMER WITH THESE TREATMENTS.

 Sun’s out! Time for swimsuits, tank tops, and bare backs. Which begs the question, are you ready to shoulder the season? If your back isn’t looking its best, try one of these treatments.

PROBLEM: Acne
CAUSES: Hormones/comedogenic products
TREATMENTS: Back facials, peels, masks

PROBLEM: Pigmentation
CAUSES: Sun damage/acne scars
TREATMENTS: Peels

PROBLEM: Texture
CAUSES: Sun damage
TREATMENTS: Peels, microderm, waxing 

PROBLEM: Excess Hair
CAUSES: Hormones
TREATMENTS: Waxing

SEEING RED?

YOU MIGHT HAVE ROSACEA.

April is Rosacea Awareness Month. Rosacea is a common skin condition that primarily affects the center of the face, and many people are unaware that they have it. It manifests as inflammation in the skin, and can range from mild redness and sensitivity to extreme irritation and acne.

Symptoms
• Redness and visible blood vessels.
• Small, red, pus-filled bumps.
• Eye problems such as red, dry, irritated, and swollen eyelids.
• Enlarged nose. This occurs more often in men than in women.

Causes/Triggers
While Rosacea is primarily genetic, there are many triggers that can make it worse:
• Spicy foods.
• Hot drinks, red wine, and alcohol.
• Sun, wind, and temperature extremes.
• Drugs that dilate the blood vessels, including some blood pressure medications.
• Overly harsh skin care products.

Treatments
The good news is that while Rosacea is not curable, it is treatable. A combination of diet, skin care, and medication can help dramatically reduce inflammation, depending on the severity. See your esthetician or dermatologist to help create a program just for you.

Spring Cleaning Time!

YOUR WARDROBE ISN'T THE ONLY THING YOU NEED TO CHANGE.

It's spring! Time to box those boots, store those sweaters, and clean those corners. But what about your personal products? Since your skin changes with every season, it's the perfect time to change your skin care routine, too.

Throw Out Old Products. Most lotions and potions have a one to two-year shelf life, but cluttering your cabinets with products you're "saving for later" is just not worth it. Bacteria could grow. Expiration dates could pass. And efficacy could degrade. Toss 'em! Like that box of Benadryl that expired in 2010 and those pants that "may fit again one day."

Switch Your Moisturizer. Dry winter skin caused by heaters, ski trips, and colder climates clearly calls for a heavier moisturizer. But the temperate weather and humidity of spring means your oil production should normalize, and you'll want a lightweight moisturizer to keep things balanced.

Trade Your Retinol for Peptides. Retinol is the gold standard for anti-aging. But using it during sunny seasons can be dangerous, increasing the likelihood of pigmentation and chemical burns. Spring is a great time to switch to a peptide product that will continue triggering collagen production without the risks of retinol.

Get a Facial. There's no better way to prep your skin for spring than with a facial. Slough off dead cell buildup, clear out impactions, and get advice on what your skin needs this season.

The Truth About Organic Skin Care

"ALL-NATURAL" IS NOT ALL GOOD

The topic of organic skin care is a hot one. The media and marketing have painted a horrific picture of "chemicals," parabens," and the "toxic" nature of any product that is not "all-natural." So I completely understand why people have switched to shopping at Whole Foods for their beauty needs. But I stand steadfast on my personal pulpit. Organic products are not good for your skin, and they don't deliver results.Blasphemy, right? Now don't get me wrong, I love botanical and natural ingredients. But these ingredients must be combined with their synthetic brothers and sisters to actually work.

The Skin Won't Absorb Natural Ingredients Without Help. Eating blueberries, carrots, and the like is great for the body. But the skin is not so hospitable. If your skin doesn't recognize an ingredient applied topically, it will reject it in the form of allergenic reactions, acne, irritation, and the breakdown of collagen. In order for the skin to accept and absorb these unknowns, they must be mixed with biogenic ingredients (ingredients found naturally in the body) as well as lab-derived delivery systems designed to penetrate.

Chemicals and Parabens are Not Evil. In fact, they create stability in products that make them safer to use and more effective. You might have heard about some studies that said parabens were endocrine disrupters linked to breast cancer. But did you hear that these studies were later disproven? No, because the media didn't want to admit that they jumped the gun on creating a panic. Thus cosmetic manufacturers were forced to go paraben-free, not because they were dangerous, but because the truth was swept under the rug.

Organic Products Don't Deliver Results. It's true. They're simply unable to incorporate and use active ingredients such as peptides, retinols, and vitamins to fight aging. And natural ingredients that have beneficial properties like blueberries (antioxidant) or sulfer (anti-inflammatory) just won't penetrate without the help of cosmetic chemists and lab-derived bonding ingredients. So get the best of both worlds...use products that contain both!

A COVID NEW YEAR

REVAMP YOUR RESOLUTIONS THIS YEAR

If you recycle the same resolutions year after year like me, then it’s time to give them a Covid spin. Here are mine:

Last Year: Eat healthier
This Year: Live healthier
Perhaps making a cheese plate 7 days a week is not good for me. But covid comfort comes in many forms, and I’ve already given up a lot. Let’s balance our bad habits with good ones, like 1 cheese plate = 1 mile walk. I think I can commit to that.

Last Year: Drink less
This Year: Drink less alone and more with friends
Falling asleep with Netflix and wine is fine, once and a while. But every night might be a bit excessive. Let’s resolve to toast with friends; if not in person, than on a Zoom call.

Last Year: Lose weight
This Year: Lose dead weight
Kudos if you lost those love handles. But for the rest of us, shedding some unwanted baggage might be more achievable. Let’s agree to let go--of anything holding us back. Fear. Doubt. Anger. Guilt. I feel lighter already.

Last Year: Take time out
This Year: Take time back
With all the shut downs and shelter in place orders, we’ve had plenty of time off. But that time was wasted “waiting” for things to get better. Let’s resolve to use downtime wisely. More conversations. Less screen time. Unplug and reconnect.

Stuck Home for the Holidays

5 WAYS TO DE-STRESS WHEN YOU’RE SHUT DOWN

Locked down once again! And with the recent Shelter-in-Place order comes a stream of stress. “How do I keep my family safe?” “How do I afford gifts when I’m out of work?” “How to I tell my parents we can’t spend the holidays with them?” And the mental swirl goes on and on. Since your usual de-stressing outlets like the gym and the spa are closed, here are some at-home ideas to keep you sane this season.

1. Give Yourself an At-Home Facial. Stress wreaks havoc on the skin. The resulting increase in cortisol depletes ther skin’s barrier, resulting in irritation. And when our skin looks bad, stress goes up. Take time out to treat yourself to a little self-care by doing an at-home facial. Check out our Facial Kits here >>

2. Take a Bath. I know this one’s a cliche, but when was the last time you tuned everything out with a hot bath? I mean, who has the time? But there’s no better reset after a long day. And you know what they say…if you don’t take care of yourself, you can’t take care of anyone else.

3. Video Conference with Friends. Being stuck at home can be a path to sweat pants. Nothing pulls you out of a pity party better than connecting with friends. It reminds you that there’s life out there, and being on video ensures you at least take a shower that day.

4. Plan a Family Game Night. It’s easy to sink into screen time when you’re bored at home. But watching Netflix every night just kills time along with your spirits. Bring the family together with a game night. They’ll complain at first, but a little competition will have them bantering by bedtime.

5. Connect through Massage. The power of touch works wonders on mental health. Ask a family member for a foot rub. Or give them a hand massage. After a few minutes, you’ll forget how much they’re “always there” and driving you crazy.

Happy Holidays!

Horrible Hormones

If you can't beat 'em, treat 'em!

Hormones play a huge part in our skin's health and appearance. They are essential in regulating all activities of the body including growth, reproduction, mood control, digestion, metabolism, and skin function. It's only when they fluctuate that they wreak havoc on our faces.

Hormonally Induced Pigmentation. Commonly referred to as "pregnancy mask," Melasma can occur any time hormones change. Lactation, contraceptive use, perimenopause, and menopause can all trigger the body to produce more melanin, resulting in large, dark patches that look like stains on the skin. And while the sun doesn't cause Melasma, it can definitely make it worse.

Hormonally Induced Acne. Hormone fluctuations, especially during puberty, menstruation, and perimenopause, can create an environment where acne flourishes. These fluctuations trigger an increase in oil production that causes the pores to clog up under the surface. Stress can also be a factor. While it doesn't cause acne, it can definitely make it worse by increasing cortisol levels that lead to additional oil production and inflammation.

Food Induced Hormones. We've all heard the phrase, "you are what you eat." But most of us don't realize how much food affects our skin. Dairy, gluten, and sugar can stimulate excess oil production that can lead to clogged pores and pimples. They can also kick-start a process called glycation, which breaks down collagen and causes wrinkles, sagginess, and a loss of radiance.

What Can You Do? Hormonal effects are best treated with a combination of spa services like corrective peels, microderm, and facials combined with at-home products such as lightening serums and acne gels. Talk to your esthetician to see which treatments would work for you.